When you think of Mumbai, you think of traffic jams and teeming slums, of roads chock-a-block with people, of sultry humidity and general chaos. You think of Bollywood and industrial tycoons, of the super rich living alongside the poor, of a city that never sleeps. But if you thought that this is all there is to Mumbai, you’d be wrong.
A graceful arched window of a Church in Colaba, Mumbai, India
There’s a softer, gentler side to the city as well – tree-lined roads, mansions and apartment buildings that speak of old money, and a blend of Gothic, Victorian, Art Deco and Indo-Saracenic (a blend of Islamic and Hindu architectural styles) architecture. And nowhere is this more evident than in the Fort and Colaba area in South Mumbai.
Gateway of India, Mumbai, India
We started our exploration of this area from the Gateway of India and the Taj Hotel after a hearty brunch at Le Pain Quotiden. Built to commemorate the visit of King George V and Queen Mary, the Gateway of India is a fine example of Indo-Saracenic architecture. Many elements of the arch and the design of the windows are derived from Islamic architecture, while the pillars are reminiscent of Hindu temple design. We were lucky to find the area relatively less crowded, which gave us a lot of time to take pictures and generally explore the place.
The iconic Taj Hotel at Mumbai, adjacent to the Gateway of India
From there, we started walking along the lane behind the Taj, with our necks craned upwards looking for interesting window and architectural details. The road is tree-lined and quiet, the buildings are old and regal, and for a while, you can almost forget that you’re in Mumbai – it could be any old European city.
An old, elegant window perched above a busy, bustling street in Mumbai
We traversed a path through Colaba, Colaba Causeway and Fort that day, with no real fixed agenda. We were just a couple of walkers, roaming around the area and exclaiming over the architecture. Why we were in architecture overdrive is still a bit of a mystery to me, but that day all we had eyes for were windows and doorways and turrets and spires. Maybe it was the juxtaposition of those old, elegant buildings with the bustling metropolis that had grown around it – but the memories I took away were of an older, more genteel Mumbai than I remembered from my stay there 10 years ago.
An old colonial building that now houses a cool junk jewelery store – Aquamarine. Mumbai, India
Of course, being girls, our trip couldn’t be complete without some shopping now, could it? There’s no better place to pick up cheap nick-knacks than at Colaba Causeway (in that area, at least). You’ll find some excellent junk jewellery, footwear and leather goods at prices that will delight your pocket. If you are on the look out for something more exclusive, make your way to Aquamarine at Colaba, which stocks some really cool (though pricey) junk jewellery.
Wow, you totally summed up everything I thought I knew about Mumbai (until now) in your opening paragraph. I blame Slumdog Millionaire and the Amazing Race for the ignorance that had been embedded in my head so deeply. The photos in this post are absolutely stunning. Thank you for sharing them!
You’re not alone in this perception of Mumbai. What Slumdog Millionaire portrayed is a very gritty and real look at the underbelly of Mumbai. Those slums and those conditions do exist – not only in Mumbai but in most large Indian cities. I’m sure they exist almost everywhere in the world. But most people end up equating Mumbai with slums, with crime and mafia. Yet, most Mumbaikars could spend their entire lives in the city without crossing paths with goons or mafioso elements. What a lot of people don’t know (or don’t think about) is that Mumbai wasn’t always “slum city”, that under those slums and that pollution there are clues to a glorious past. Those clues were what we set out to discover that day. If you like, you can read my thoughts on Slumdog Millionaire here: https://moderngypsy.in/2009/02/10/slumdog_millionaire/
I’m so glad you focused on the architecture in this first post. Whenever I travel somewhere new i have to browse through at least one neighborhood to look through their houses. Although I often keep to the US States, regionally they are so different from one another. Those are gorgeous buildings filled with a lot of history, one thing the US lacks compared to so many other countries.
Beautiful.
Yup, that they are! Though the US does have some amazing buildings too – at least in NYC – those huge public buildings…their scale was awe-inspiring!
I always try to look over the Hollywood/Bollywood interpretations. There is so much more to places and events they portray. Your photos are stunning 🙂
Oh yes, that there is. Movies are either glamorized or gritty – never balanced.
Wow! LOVE your photography of Mumbai!! So elegant. Thanks for sharing with us that there’s a softer, gentler side to the city. I didn’t know all of those things about the city until reading this! Thanks 🙂
Thanks so much! I was also pleasantly surprised at the different side of Mumbai that my friend showed me. I supposed when you move to a new city you look at it with fresh eyes. 🙂
I would love to visit Mumbai – and your comments only intensify that feeling! Lovely!!!!
It is a great city to visit, and you can combine it with visits to various other Indian cities as well – they all have a different character, culture and architectural style that makes it fascinating to travel across the country.
Lovely photos. Sounds like a fascinating place! xo L
Thanks Lisa! It is indeed a fascinating place!
I would love to travel like you have! So jealous! Saw you on SITS! Have a great one!
Thanks for dropping by! You can travel vicariously through my blog if you like 😉
Thank you, Modern Gypsy for presenting such a beautiful side of Mumbai. I get really upset when people focus on only the slums and the underbelly of this city. The next time you are in Mumbai, why don’t you try this walk: http://thatandthisinmumbai.wordpress.com/2012/03/15/a-sunday-morning-walk-in-mumbai/ I think you’ll like it. I’d love to take you on this walk myself 🙂
This looks like a wonderful walk! The next time I’m in Mumbai, I’ll certainly take you up on your offer! 🙂 Thank you!!
It is a refreshing post about a city all but lost to the worst facets of humanity, including terrorism. You have retrieved a face of Mumbai that is better acknowledged for the daily grime and the grind, a couple of bourses and a very fake Bollywood aura. One thinks more of the stampedes at the local junctions than dreamy walks. Having said that, I have myself experienced the charm circa 2005 when I was possessed by photographic ambitions.
Thank you Umashamkar, glad you enjoyed the post, and that I was able to convey how much I loved this gentler side of Mumbai! I hope, reading this post, people get inspired to look at the city with a fresh set of eyes. 🙂
Breathtaking. I never would have even thought to think about Mumbai! Thanks for broadening my horizons. Found you in the weekend blog walk
Glad you liked it! Hopefully now it will inspire you to plan a trip to Mumbai sometime in the future! 😉
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